Camino dos Faros
Galicia, Spain
My adventure began solo in Ribadeo, where I kicked off the journey on my Kawasaki KLR 650, the engine’s steady hum setting the tone for the road ahead. I rode south to Somiedo National Park in Asturias, weaving through lush valleys and misty mountains. There, I ditched the bike for a day to hike Pico del Cornón, the highest peak in Asturias. The climb was grueling, but the summit’s panoramic views—rolling green ridges under a vast sky—made every step worth it. That next day, I watched runners push their limits in the EDP DesafiOSOmiedo Ultra, their grit a quiet inspiration for the journey to come.
A few days later, I met up with Daan Spits at Camping Praia Barreira Leis, where I pitched my tent under the pines. Daan, ever the comfort seeker, opted for a room at the nearby Hotel Playa de Lago, his BMW F650GS parked neatly outside. Over a couple of beers, we swapped stories—Daan’s about the rain driving here, mine about the long day whipping through Somiedo’s trails. Our plan, “Ride & Hike,” was coming together: a blend of throttle and trail along the Camino dos Faros, the “Lighthouse Way” on Spain’s wild Costa da Morte.
We rode our motorcycles through the rugged Galician landscape, the KLR 650 eating up the uneven roads while Daan’s BMW sliced through coastal curves. The bikes carried us past fishing villages and wave-battered cliffs until we reached Muxía, where we stored them at the Parador Costa da Morte, its sleek design a stark contrast to the raw coastline. With the bikes secured, we traded our motorcycle gear for hiking boots and set off on the Camino dos Faros.
The trail from Muxía to Lires was a 15-kilometer immersion into the Costa da Morte’s soul. We followed rocky paths along sheer cliffs, the Atlantic roaring below, and passed hidden coves where the tide churned. That night, we crashed at As Eiras Lires Hotel Restaurante, a cozy spot where we refueled with hearty Galician food and planned the next day’s trek.
The following morning, we continued to Fisterra, the trail’s endpoint and the “end of the world” in ancient lore. The 14-kilometer hike wove through pine forests and past the iconic Cabo Fisterra lighthouse, where we stood watching the ocean stretch to infinity. We checked into Pensión López, a no-frills guesthouse with creaky floors and warm hospitality. Over dinner, Daan and I toasted to the journey—two wheels, two feet, and the wild call of the Camino dos Faros binding us to this untamed coast.